viva arabia!

Our trip is going very well so far. We stayed at the Tobasco Hostel in the Old City, Jerusalem, lsat night and crossed into Jordan via the Alenby / King Hussein bridge. Crossing the West Bank through Jericho was no problem and the scenery was great... desert oases & even a herd of camels crossing the road in front of us..

While waiting in limbo for 2 hours between Israel and Jordan we re-met the Reuters photographer who we had met on thurs at the jordanian embassy. Found out that he was from Sweden so started speaking Swedish, and instantly the two people behind us join in -- it was the Norwwegian TV/Radio correspondant for the Middle East & his wife! Eight people waiting for the bus across the border and four speak Swedish...

Taxi to Amman, then met up with some guy who happens to be a hotel manager in Petra and shared a taxi to Jerash. I think we were the only two tourists there, at least when we arrived! At first we were mobbed by the little kids all trying to sell us stuff, but eventually we found solitude in a more remote part of the ruins.

Somehow we were "adopted" by this guy Mohammed, who befriended us and took us to his favorite Schwarma place, made tea ofor us, etc etc. I know it sounds likea scam but eventually he and his brother drove us back to Amman to this hotel (Farah, as planned -- very nice, btw.) refusing any payment.

Jerash. Spectacular, especvially at sunset. But even more spectacular were the people! You see, right now is the middle of the Jerash Festival of Arabic culture. There are hardly any tourists here in Jordan because of the situation in Israel, so not only were we 2 of the opnly Westerners there, but it was also very cheap to get in (1 dinar, approx $1.20). Amazing amazing, all the people.. the Jordanian police in their blue camoflauge fatigues, cmbat boots, berets -- and soooooo polite, the arabs in all their various dress.. white gowns, sandals, red and white headdresses. and the Saudi Arabians who had made the long drive up from that country to see a particular performing artist.. and the Saudi Arabian women, dressed from head to tow in black, with only deep, mysterious eyes exposed, darting back and forth; moving furtively in little groups and (according to mohammed) enjoying the relatively liberal atmoshere in Jordan where they're actually allowed to dance / have fun in public. .. probably a capital crime in Saudi Arabia. Also met a Lebanese boyscout troop and a troupe of clowns from Palestinia. Armenian music, dancing bedouins with swords... & We heard "Welcome to Jordan!" so many times.

The Jerash festival goes on for another week, I think. Those of you in Israel could probably get there wquite easily and cheaply via Jordan River Crossing.. definitely worthwhile, and definitely a doable weekend trip.

We are now at Farah Hotel.. roof was full at midnight when we got in so we got a "double" (which actually contains five beds, all at oiur disposal) for JD 9. Nice place, very clean, staff very courteous.

Today we are off to Petra. it's kind of sad that we don't have more time to hang around Amman & northern Jordan. There's certainly plenty to do there.