Mississippi
Dec. 14th, 2006 01:28 amMississippi is another world. We came into Memphis in the dark, so maybe the transition was earlier on. But one thing's for sure: what we saw today in Mississippi was not like what we saw yesterday in Tennessee. We were in the midst of high-flying casinos advertising buffets and slots when we turned off of US-61 onto a little highway, MS-38 I think, towards the river, and instantaneously it was as if we were in another era, one characterized by swamps, poverty, ancient automobiles, and a pervasive and surreal bleakness. Little whisps of cotton floating in the air caught on the car's radio antenna. I felt quite self-conscious and a little vulnerable driving around with New York plates—at least two people exclaimed when they noticed. (Locally license plates of any sort appeared optional.) Driving further south things seemed a bit more normal, nothing different than one would find around Fresno or the Sacramento delta -- mixed agriculture and light urban freeway sprawl -- but that little stretch of MS-38 left a lasting impression. The drive from Rochester down through Pennsylvania, Virginia, Carolina, and Tennessee is a hilly agrarian continuum, but then Mississippi comes abruptly as an alien world.