Tartu, Estonia (Sept 16-23, 2003)
Oct. 5th, 2004 12:57 amTartu, academic capital of Estonia, full of signs of student life. Sister-school of Uppsala, contemporary of Lund. Theres a ´sacrificial stone´ from pagan times where now, supposedly, students burn their notes after exams. I have a nice little room all to myself just 2km out of town. Meelika met me in the central square and tonight we´re going to her roommate´s birthday party. Last night I stayed at the apartment of a guy who I met at an ATM. In the store there is Maribou chocolate. And Kalev sells advent calendars for EU ascession: eat the little bit of chocolate when that country ratifies ascession.
In Tartu I felt almost established; I had my own place a few kilometers out from the city center, and when I came home late at night I'd knock on the window and the komandant would unlock the door and let me in, then I'd climb the five flights of stairs to my floor. One night the temperature dropped to 4 degrees C, and the sudden chill on my face reminded me that the seasons really are changing, that winter is coming and I'm really not prepared for that. It's funny to be on a trip and have the seasons change. (And by the time I came to Luleå and then to the Arctic, Nils and I were able to throw snowballs at each other.) It makes the journey seem longer. In Tartu I felt I was there exactly for the transition to autumn, the verdant, healthy trees turning golden almost as I watched.It's very difficult to write about travels in retrospect. It's one of those things that you just have to do in the moment, and the writing becomes part of the travels, truer than anything that could be written later. Unfortunately there's little time to write while travelling, so I'm left with all these little snippets of text, in addition of course to a legion of memories. I also have my notebook, with various artefacts pasted in, addresses and expendiatures and little notes to myself. I love to page through them and recall the adventures.
I think most of you know my Estonia story by now. My first trip may have been cut short, but it was still enough to make some friends and discover what a fascinating place Estonia is, and so I had to return. From Riga I took the night bus into Tartu and later met up with my friend Meelika.

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