I don't know what to make of San Diego, but so far my estimation of it is on
the up and up. The city is revealing itself to me patiently. As I write this
I am reclined luxuriously on a cushion at Claire de Lune (2906 University Ave), in a district called
North Park. The floor of the cafe is well populated by comfortable chairs,
mostly plush and soft, in deep primary colors and browns. The room is airy
and spatious, with high ceilings painted a deep blue; the walls are a bright
yellow, interrupted by red curtains. The cafe itself is perched on a corner
of Park Street, and outside I can watch the headlights of cars driving down
the boulevard and look out upon the neon of -- is it a pizzeria? a name that starts with a G -- as if in a strange
twist of that famous `Realist' painting "Night Owls."
It's a city for automobiles, but there are flavorful districts and unique
morsels of urban life hidden among them. Driving into one of these districts
you're likely to be greeted by its name in overhead neon: HILLCREST, NORTH
PARK, NORMAL HEIGHTS, or the most fantastic of all, "The Boulevard" in
gigantic pink script over an apparently important throughofare. I don't even
know what decade this belongs to. It is out of my experience. In
reconstituting my peripheral vision, my brain substitutes faded blue cadillacs
with monstrous tailfins for the cars driving by, and suggests to me that maybe
I'm actually within a David Lynch film. Normal Heights like a small ghostly town in the mist on a hill reminded of that town of Spectre, and I think I'm in love with Lestats.