nibot ([personal profile] nibot) wrote2008-10-03 11:41 pm
Entry tags:

prescriptive gastronomy

I've generally been a fan of Mark Bittman's book, How to Cook Everything. The recipes I've followed from it have turned out well, and he seems so sensible and down-to-earth. Until you come (on page 592) to this bizarre little gem about his old nemesis, the green bell pepper:

Here we're talking about sweet, or bell peppers (as opposed to hot, which it's best to call chiles to avoid confusion). When it comes to sweet peppers, color is far more important than shape. Actually, there's only one color that really matters: green. Green peppers may be "mature," but they are not ripe, at least not if ripeness implies the peak of flavor. Where a green pepper is sharp, almost acrid, and likely as not to cause indigestion, the same pepper picked a week or two later, when red, yellow, or orange, will have mellowed considerably. Of course red peppers are usually more expensive than green, and not always available, so there are times when we have to settle. But there is no question which pepper is preferable. Note: Purple peppers are green peppers in disguise; the purple color gades to muddy green as they cook, and the flavor is usually bitter.

The purple pepper paranoia clearly proves his psychosis! I'll take a zesty, fresh green bell pepper over a sickly sweet red one any day.

Then on page 111, he advocates that we "just say no" to pasta salad. wtf!

Bittman on pasta salad

[identity profile] nibot.livejournal.com 2008-10-04 04:48 am (UTC)(link)
If you look up pasta salad in How to cook everything, you'll only find:
A note about pasta salads Cold pasta is a fact of life, and—if not overcooked to begin with and rinsed of excess starch and dressing—it can make a decent addition to any salad. To me, however, it makes no sense to intentionally cook pasta for salad. Grains such as rice, barley, and quinoa keep better, retain their structural integrity better (that is, they don't fall apart), taste better, and offer better texture—they are not at all gummy—than cold pasta. So if you have some leftover pasta you want to integrate into a salad, by all means, go ahead. But don't set out to make "pasta salad."

[identity profile] easwaran.livejournal.com 2008-10-04 09:00 am (UTC)(link)
I always thought the different color peppers were different breeds or something - I had no idea they were the same plant. But then, I don't really like any of them.

[identity profile] cherryspecial.livejournal.com 2008-10-04 12:00 pm (UTC)(link)
When I worked at a garden store, I used to snack on the bell peppers when they were still tiny... green peppers taste even better before they're full size!

[identity profile] ailanthia.livejournal.com 2008-10-04 01:21 pm (UTC)(link)
No, he's totally right. The green ones are gross.

[identity profile] evan.livejournal.com 2008-10-05 09:10 pm (UTC)(link)
I like that book, but it feels like half the recipes are of the form

X
Ingredients: X, onions, salt.
Directions: cook X with onions (and/or garlic). Salt to taste.